NOTICE - Dallas Area Classic Chevys Message Board Will Soon Be Deactivated

[Larry Epperson]

Last Muscle Car Challenge we had at Ennis I broke my transmission. The Bell housing cracked all the way around and was held in the car only by the rear tailshaft support. I purchased the 700 R4 from a company out of Florida; MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS. When I called them concerning the problem, their 2 year warranty, was no good although I have only had the transmission for 4 months & less than 700 miles. They do offer a long list of reasons why the failure happened, which of course, voids any repairs.

I've had the repairs made & new converter and back on the road if it ever stops raining.

[57boxman]

I'm sorry to hear you got the transmission shaft from MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS. I will put them on my bad list. I'm glad to hear you got your car up and running.

I myself am having problems at times shifting into third. I need to work with the shifter some more. At least I hope it is the shifter. I hope it is not a gear box problem.

You and your son keep up the good fight. See ya at the next event. and let's hope it not a hundred degrees on July 15 when the club takes the cruse to Bridgeport. I don't have A/C

For my winter project this year I'm thinking of installing A/C. Even though paint or interior would make my old heap look better, drive-ability I think is more important for now.

Alan
_________________
Texas Classic Chevy Experience
http://www.texasclassicchevyexperience.com/

[wheezer]

This is general information related to the original post in this string. Twisting of the transmision case to the point of cracking in the bellhousing area is a high performance risk. TCI warns high performance users of automatic transmissions to always use a flexible transmission mount at the rear cross member. Some vendors sell solid steel mounts for the rear of the transmission mount. Don't use them. Some twisting of the drive train needs to relieve the strain on the tranny bell housing. Bolt the engine as hard as you like to the frame with solid mounts but let the transmission have some flexability with the rubber or urethane mount at the trans rear.
_________________
"A Classic Car is Not Aerodynamic"

[jaspermaggie]

I cracked my th350 at the track. I need new trans drive shaft distributor and rear end. The trans is hanging on the converter and rubber mount. The motor turnes no noise do you think it is damaged?
Tom

[orange56]

Broke a 350 bellhousing case and we took it out and a welding shop welded it back togather and was in the car for many years. If this is a built trans you may check that option.
Kenneth

[jaspermaggie]

well it is cracked all the way around. I can see the bolts that hold the pan. I also can move the shaft in the back. I thought I only had 520hp I think it is more. This was a B&M.

[wheezer]

Please explain in detail how the motor and transmission were supported in your 55 Chevy chassis.
There are a few different ways to do it for relability. The method to support the motor and tranmission described the the Classic Chevy catalogue and Danchuck catalogue are the recommended arrangements for any moderate high performance work with the car. To go beyond that there are even stronger ways to support the arrangement.
Getting back to your cracked transmission...there is a possibility that if the crack does not extend to the the trans pump seal face then the tranny is salavageable if a J W Performance bellhousing is used. They cost about $200 out of Jegs. It's hand work to cut off the cracked bell housing then bolt on the JW Performance bell housing. They are made to fit the Turbo 350. Beyond that the repaired the motor/tranny system needs proper support as mentioned earlier.
_________________
"A Classic Car is Not Aerodynamic"

[jaspermaggie]

It has the member at the rear of transmission on a rubber pad next it is mounted to the block with side mounts to frame then on the block it has front mounts.