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57boxman

My window fur channels got so bad that at least one door window cracked from the vibrations of the car. With that problem and other problems with the side glass, I am in the process of replacing the channels and windows.

I have been looking for directions and below is what I have found so far.

Before starting, roll your window to its "up" position. This will allow easy access to the inner door assemblies.

Clamp the window in this position, taking care not to scratch the glass (when the window regulator assembly is removed, nothing will be supporting the glass).

Tip: We recommend wearing long sleeves while working inside the door assembly. Sharp edges can easily cut skin! If necessary, use flashlight and small inspection mirror to make sure that rollers are firmly set in tracks.

Is it just me or did they leave out a few steps?

Please give me words of wisdom, hints, tricks, and things to avoid in replacing my windows. If you have a link to a good site with good instructions please send it to me.

On another chat board, a Tri5 owner was replacing his windows to put in electric window openers. I don't want to do that, I actually like the nostalgia of the crank windows. But he broke one of his windows installing it. I DON'T want break anything and given half a chance, I will break a window. What to do to insure no cracks or breakage?

I'm saving the front and back glass for later. I'm afraid of rust on the rubber mounts. When I paint my car I will replace and fix that issue.

Please give me your knowledge or at least your 2 cents.

Alan

SEE YOU AT THE GARAGE CRAWL MARCH 14.

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57boxman · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:13 am Post subject:

Marvin have you replaced door glass? Did you have any problems? I don't want to make a mistake, because of my not knowing any better. Your telling me about not hard bolting down an Aluminum radiator, but rather to support from the bottom and use rubber bushings, now has me worried about replacing the glass. I can read the Danchuck instruction, but when push comes to shove I just look at the pictures. I'm am an oral learner!

Signed,
The person that will always prove Murphy's Law is really a law & he who has too much time on his hands while on vacation.
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acardon · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:04 am Post subject:

Alan, Ecklers has a reprint of some Fisher Body information that may help. http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-manual-fisher-service-news-number-2-volume-15-6-1956.html
Although this drawing is not a 55, the window mechanism works the same way. The upper cam track is screwed to the window sash or setting channel. 2 rollers of the regulator go in the upper cam track and the other roller goes in the lower cam track. The glass is not that fragile. I'm not sure about a 2 door, I think the vent window has to come out to change the glass. ..... http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0746.htm

Larry Epperson · Bel Air Joined: 05 Dec 2006 Posts: 300 Location: Dallas

Alan
I have taken my windows out and reinstalled
I recommend patience and pay close attention
To how they are removed I could not find any
information for my installation and had a few
Tense hours before I got them to work
Tense is the nicer way of saying it!!
Have fun especially with the rear windows

Larry
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in my Garage:

1957 Chevy BelAir
1949 Chevy Truck

Thought for the day-

Horsepower: "If a little is great, and a lot is better, then way too much is just about right